So, What’s Wrong with the Organ Anyway? Part I — or Lizzie & the Church are killing it

  Well, to start with, nothing so far as the instrument itself is concerned.  The problems (and there are many) have to do with the people affiliated with the organ — at least since the second half of the Twentieth Century.  And what do I mean by that?  The organist asks indignantly.  Let’s take a look and see what happened.

During most of its long and glorious history the organ was always considered the supreme instrument of Western music.  The fact that it is the oldest keyboard instrument, therefore the most complex mechanically, gave it a cache that no other instrument had, or has to this day. No other single instrument was capable of duplicating or exceeding the multi-voiced textures of a vocal ensemble than the organ: This capability in turn, helped pave the way to the development of the polyphonic complexities unique to Western music. It wasn’t until the development of the 18th Century instrumental ensemble which became the foundation of our modern symphonic orchestra that the organ finally encountered any competition in this area.  Even then, as now, the orchestra does not have the frequency range nor, in the case of a comparably sized organ, the dynamic range.  Moreover, up through the first decade of the Twentieth Century the organ was an immensely popular instrument.  Most of the great composers before or since Bach have at least dabbled with the instrument.  Mendelssohn was a virtuoso and wrote extensively for it, Brahms wrote for the instrument early in his career and then found consolation in it at the very end of his life. Mozart loved the organ as did Liszt who wrote a number of substantial pieces for it.  Even Beethoven wrote a few, albeit inconsequential, pieces.  Although in the 19th Century the piano became the  more popular instrument primarily out of convenience, it was the to organ recitals that people flocked to hear transcriptions of their favourite orchestral works and the great works J. S. Bach.

So what happened?  Why is this magnificent instrument nowadays relegated to near pariah status in our present world?  A number of mitigating factors can immediately be considered: 1. The sound recording brought the world’s orchestras  into people’s homes making transcriptions and silent movie accompaniment obsolete. 2. Since the silent film era, the organ became the instrument of choice for mad scientists and evil beings in the movies.  Needless to say, this has done irreparable damage to the image of the organ, stereotypically associating it with either excessive church piety or horror movies. Neither gives a honest assessment of the majesty of the organ.  The latter has finally begun to fade as a pejorative; but, only through the indefatigable efforts of such great masters of the console as E. Power Biggs and Virgil Fox, and the gradual passage of time has this image begun to disappear from the public memory.  

Nevertheless, it’s the stodgy image of the “church organ” which continues to encroach on the realm of the king of instruments.  Stereotypes abound regarding this image. First, there is the phenomenon of Lizzie Leftfoot, more than likely a local piano teacher or elementary school teacher, who really isn’t an organist at all, but does what she can on Sunday to play the hymns and accompany the choir. Ofttimes (and yes, it usually is a woman) she volunteers her services out of devotion to her church since there isn’t a real (i.e., professional) organist around to do the job properly.  The result is this lingering impression that being a church musician really doesn’t involve much effort.  She can read music, so, therefore, she can play the organ for church.  One of the side effects of this mentality is the delusion that being a church organist doesn’t require much expertise.  A local garage band with a bunch of musical illiterates is treated more credulously. 

Second, and not unrelated, churches reflect our culture in that they think music should be free or nearly free and, for some reason, to be a musician, particularly a classically trained church musician, it is improper to expect monetary reimbursement. After all, isn’t one using her gifts in service to the church viz. an higher calling?  For some reason the clergy with their ostensible higher calling, are lured to a church with not only a salary, but pensions and health insurance and in most cases either a housing allowance or outright housing.  Yet, the organist/choir director, by virtue of being merely a musician, barely receives a weekly part-time stipend, for which he or she is supposed to be grateful, the man-hours of daily practise and preparation and years of training notwithstanding.  Suddenly the church cries poor: “well we’re a small parish and can’t afford (read: want) to pay the organist very much. The result of this dismal attitude is that the standard of playing in most churches is at best sub-par: “you get what you pay for”(sic), as the saying goes.  Yet, with pathetic irony, churches are constantly lamenting over what seems to be an apparent shortage of organists.    Again, via the church, we have a reflection of our culture’s bias against serious music; treating it as being frivolous or insignificant; or as played under the above circumstances — boring.  The end result:  the organ is that boring, turgid, bland instrument in church that old Mrs. Leftfoot plays every Sunday.  Such is the plight that few people, mostly in smaller churches, rarely get to experience the emotionally and spiritually energising thrill of dynamic, musically charged hymn playing.

 

Classical Politics

A classic example that the arts, in this case classical music, are just as political and insider oriented (perhaps more so) as any big corporation or government agency. Simply because Paul Creston didn’t attend or teach at Curtis or Juilliard you practically never get to hear his music. The 2nd Violin Concerto is equally as beautiful, and just as (maybe more) challenging as the Barber. Moreover, this is just one of countless examples of this crap. Why does everything have to be this way? I’m sick of it.

The Bane of Easy Access Technology

Technology can be a wonderful thing.  We think of all the marvels in space exploration, manufacturing (particularly nano-mechanics), medicine, data storage and a host of all kinds of advancements which reflect the human impulse to expand knowledge.  I love my Macbook.  It gives me access to libraries, museums, literature, music and countless other ways of editing my life in ways I could only dream in my youth.  I’m grateful to technology for the myriad of things it affords me.

My problem is not with technological advancement, but with the irresponsible commercialisation of it; i. e., the easy accessibility of it to people who don’t understand the consequences of its imprudent use.  Now, this is not a new phenomenon, every generation has this problem.  A new technology is developed and sooner or later (usually sooner) greed takes over and some corporation finds whatever way it can to mass market this new and wondrous technology to a general public of which a substantial portion are intellectually and culturally preliterate.  Granted this has been the case throughout history.  However, prior to the twentieth century, new technologies were much more slowly absorbed into the society.  In a sense, there was a learning curve; the one exception being the easy accessibility of firearms, particularly in the United States, where virtually anybody and everybody can get their hands on guns: and, well, we’ve seen the results of that.

Notwithstanding, as advances in technology increased, their speed of entry into the general society correspondingly accelerated.  Up to this point in recent history the general public almost managed to keep apace with the newest technologies released.  That was largely do, in part, to an extensive and well funded (generally) public school system.  During the post-war period up through the 60’s US society was gradually becoming more and more technologically sophisticated.  Conversely, thanks to the anti-government movement, during the past three decades public education has continued to decline, particularly in poor urban and rural areas, where the decline has been precipitous.  Meanwhile, technology zooms along at a more an more accelerated pace.

Couple this with the manifest deterioration of cultural norms of etiquette and civilised behaviour (the result of a general decline in parenting skills, for which, of course, everyone else is to blame, we are now plagued with more than one generation of loud, obnoxious, ignorant and gratuitously selfish neanderthals blathering on their cellphones or listening to the cacophonies of pop culture in public.  It’s not that these “people” (for lack of a better term) weren’t already ill-mannered and boorish, it’s just that these technologies have made it easier for them to be so.  Corporate investment in dumbing down these technological devices has been so extensive I’m sometimes amazed to see that people who can’t even articulate a simple sentence or write their names, much less know the basics of polite behaviour, are able to master the fundamentals of most mobile devices.   And it’s only going to get worse.  To paraphrase Bette Davis: “Hang on, it’s going to be a bumpy tomorrow.”

Art Song and Pedaling the Piano

I love art song, and I’ve recently returned to practising art song accompaniment on the piano.  It’s been good for me; this way I get to restore some of my atrophied keyboard skills, and I get to practise music I like without the usual piano exercises or repertoire.  Moreover, I get to rethink, reconsider, reaffirm my philosophy regarding piano playing — especially as it pertains to the accompaniment of song. I may not get to perform with a singer again in the near future, if at all; but, at least I have the satisfaction of playing this music in a manner which, although may contradict much of what is accepted piano playing philosophy, is, nonetheless, how I feel the way this music should be played.

Currently, songs on which I’ve been working are:

1. Franny Shoobop:  Erlkönig, Gretchen am Spinnrade, Die Forelle (tricky stuff), Stänchen, Das Wandern

2. Gabby Fauré:  Notre Amour, Clair de Lune, Aurore, Les Berceaux (haunting), Nell (also tricky), and the cycle Mirages, Op. 113 (rarely performed)

3. Malcolm Williamson:  (from the cycle “A Child’s Garden”)  The Flowers, My Bed Is a Boat, A Good Boy

4. Roger Quilter:  Fair House of Joy, Love’s Philosophy (phew!)

5. Ralph Fisher:  Somewhere i have never travelled, is there a flower, if i have made, my lady, a clown’s smirk (hard)

6. RVW:  Whither Must I Wander

Then there are those wonderful women composers (predominately American, mostly with three names) of the early part of the 20th Century:

1. Mildred Lund Tyson:  Sea Moods (tricky in one place), The Lilacs Are in Bloom

2. Mary Turner Salter:  The Cry of Rachel (Did someone say melodrama?)

3. Elinor Remick Warren:  Snow Towards Evening

4. Teresa del Riego (British):  Homing (guaranteed not do leave a dry eye in the house — when sung correctly, of course)

5. Clara Edwards:  Into the Night

The thing that I have tried to achieve with these songs, as I practise them, is to articulate the notes and phrasing as indicated by the composer; and that frequently requires abstention from use of the sustain, or damper, pedal to a large extent. This is especially true in the Schubert and Fauré songs, but is also true in many of the others.

Keyboard musicians are notorious for ignoring phrasing. Organists just get so wrapped up in their legato-obsession that they simply can’t resist slithering around the instrument without a single phrase break in an entire piece whether it’s indicated or (as in Bach) not.  Pianists are just as guilty with their neurotic use of the damper pedal, often resulting in the piece being one continual blurry wad of sound.  In short keyboard musicians don’t breath.  Unlike singers and wind players, they aren’t physically compelled to do so, so they don’t.  Since most organists are also trained pianists (as opposed to the converse), and are often called upon to accompany at the piano, and, since I’m focusing on song accompaniment, we’ll stick to the piano.

Let’s choose a Schubert song; say, “Gretchen am Spinnrade.”  First of all, the composer gives us no pedalling indications at all. This is not unusual since the sustain  pedal (or lever) on the pianos in Schubert’s and Beethoven’s time were still quite rudimentary. Its use was limited primarily to special effects or to aid in achieving some semblance of legato for large stretches or other awkward sections. As a result of this lack of pedal markings we are at the mercy of the pianist’s musical intelligence and, dare I say, good taste. At the onset, the pianist sees the terms sempre legato in the right hand and sempre staccato left hand.  Typically, a pianist will more than likely focus on achieving the legato in the right hand, since that’s the faster moving part and symbolises the motion of the wheel itself. Therefore, a discreet but steady use of the sustain pedal will invariably ensue. Moreover, since there aren’t any of those pesky slurs, the pianist doesn’t have worry too much about phrase articulation.  I used the word discreet, since, even though I’m referring to pedal use, a good pianist won’t just sit on it, but will at least try to give some kind of illusion of a detached left hand.  But wait a minute! The left hand is in essentially two parts, an upper part consisting of one or more detached quavers and a slow moving, almost organ-like, single note dotted minim bass line. Also, Schubert’s sempre staccato indication appears below the staff. Does that mean ALL the voices in the left hand are to be played staccato?  One would hope not.  Only a literalistic fool would think that. Obviously the upper part is to be played staccato, as indicated, and the bottom voice legato.  Consequently, this totally negates use of the damper pedal (Again, I’m implying here that the pianist is a relatively intelligent, if not exceptionally intuitive, musician.  Perhaps I’m assuming a bit too much; but, for the sake of argument let’s go with that premise.).  One could nearly achieve, perhaps, the desired affect of staccato and legato in the same hand with employment of the sustenuto pedal.  But, why would anyone want to do that since there aren’t any particularly difficult stretches in the left hand which would require its singular benefit?  The sustenuto pedal is a handy-dandy device, and I love using it; but, it’s unnecessary here.

Of course, this does not preclude the sustain pedal altogether; rather, its discriminating application can often be very effective.  For instance, in the same song, Schubert briefly changes the mood to an almost dreamlike feeling when Gretchen begins to describe the man she loves (“Sein höher Gang, sein’ edge Gestalt”).  Here the composer has shifted to F Major, the piano becomes much softer (pp); and while the right hand continues to keep the wheel spinning, the left hand has become static, as if she has lost track of her work completely and has begun to fantasise about him.  At this point the pianist can virtually sit on the damper pedal, reinforcing the trancelike state into which she has wandered.  The effect can be quite startling in contrast to the very clear, almost contrapuntal preceding section.  However, the atmosphere soon changes.  The harmonic rhythm quickens, the dynamics increase, the tempo accelerates as she becomes more and more fervent in her fantasy, climaxing to the point of a passionate kiss.  Contrary to normal practise, the gradual lessening of damper pedal application actually increases the tension, creating a tautness and starkness to her fevered delusion.

This also holds true for the second half of the song.  After she gets back to work she again goes into an emotional fervour (“Mein Busen drängt sich nach ihm hin.”); this time she yearns for her lover in even greater despair of his absence.  Using the same techniques as before Schubert builds to a desperate, one might say erotic, climax; after which Gretchen virtually collapses, or simply gives up (depending on how far you want to take this), as the spinning wheel gradually comes to a stop.  Again, I highly recommend eschewing application of the damper pedal.  A held note with only its one damper raised (i. e., without the pedal) has a shorter sustain than if it’s struck with the pedal down and the whole row of dampers raised.  The result is that the sfozati in the left hand at the peak of both climaxes becomes much more pronounced and effective.  Therefore, greater drama is achieved.

Okay, so we know about the shortcomings of Schubert’s piano and that his songs require less pedalling than most pianists want to consider.  What about Schumann, Brahms, Löwe, Wolf, etc.?   Even with these later composers, although there are possibly more occasions for pedal usage, coupled with their often imprecise pedal markings, it is still quite evident that damper pedal usage can and should be reduced drastically — even avoided — provided that the pianist actually learns to play legato.

And what about the French?  Surely, French art song with its luxuriant harmonic language and elegant textures lends itself to a more liberal approach to the sustain pedal.   Au contraire, mon ami.  This is a grave misunderstanding of the nature of French music, perpetrated by a what I consider to be a general misreading of those composers who are commonly referred to as the Impressionist school, of whom Debussy and Ravel are supposed to be its chief exponents.  With all the swooshing around with the sustain pedal, especially with those two composers, one very crucial aspect of the music  —  and the French musical sensibility in general — is overlooked or ignored:   the love of clarity first and foremost.  There is probably no greater exponent of this approach to composition than Fauré.   Fauré epitomises all those qualities we admire in French song: transparency of textures, economy of means, elegant flowing melodies, eminently singable vocal lines, and perfect balance between the voice and the piano. Of course the tendency for pianists to treat Fauré’s melodies (as well as most French song) as “Impressionistic” (i. e., with lots of pedal) in an attempt to achieve a sort of gauzy, atmospheric quality is very shortsighted.  The one thing I’ve noticed about Fauré’s accompaniments is that he is very specific as to where the pedal is to be used; and that when it is to be employed — if at all — it’s to be done so sparingly.

Let’s look at “Clair de Lune,” for example.  This song is unique because the piano not only sets the mood, but is the actual focus of interest because of its melodic and harmonic consistency; whereas the voice, in an almost through composed style, merely comments on this enchanting phenomenon portrayed by the piano; this almost giving the impression of a piano solo with vocal accompaniment.  For the first seventeen measures there is not one pedalling indication.  Now, does that mean the sustain pedal is not to be used at all during those measures?  In a word, yes.  During this first part the right and left hands are phrased separately and, therefore, should be articulated accordingly. The left hand is made of small three-note semiquaver groups separated by a semiquaver rest at the beginning of each beat, each group with its own slur.  The notes within these groupings are, of course, to be played legato.  The right hand consists of a separate flowing melody of one and two measure phrases which are to be articulated distinctly from the left hand.  The problem here is that most pianists (if not all) simply refuse to acknowledge any phrasing; and their insistent use of the damper pedal simply exacerbates the problem.  When good, fluid, legato technique is used there is no need to employ the sustain pedal in those first seventeen measures.  My only caveat would be at mm.5 and 13 (and duplicate passages) where the slightest tap of the pedal may be used to achieve legato between the repeated G’s; no more. This would be a legitimate function of the sustain pedal; even then I’m not fully convinced of the necessity.  Nevertheless, at m18 (“Jouant du luth et dansant”) we finally see actual pedalling indications from the composer.  Here they occur on the off beats and only long enough to cover the value of the quavers in the left hand.  Then at ms24 & 25 only the little arpeggios in the left hand are pedalled.  The return to the opening melody in the piano at m26 (“Tout en chantant, sur le mode mineur”) signals a return to the absence of pedalling.  Then at m38 (“au calme clair de lune, triste et beau”) Fauré transports us into a dreamlike world for four measures shifting to a major tonality and full measure arpeggios lifting the pedal only when the harmony changes.  He does this again for two more measures at m44.  The next pedalling occurs at m51 (“Les grands jets d’eau svelte pram the marbres!”) when he reprises the off-beat quaver-length pedalling of earlier; this time across three measures of a repeated seven note pattern under one phrase slur.  One last set of pedal indications occur four measures from the end (ms58 & 59) on the Ab Major and c minor triads with no pedalling in the final two measures.

As we see Fauré is very specific as to where the damper pedal is to be applied.  The result is when the pedal is employed the unique effect it has on the mood of the song is greatly enhanced. This effect would be lost if the pedal was used regularly throughout, even if applied carefully.

One factor which many people overlook is that many French composers of Fauré’s generation and earlier were organists — including Fauré himself.  So, legato touch sans pedale on the piano is not a foreign idea for French music.  Even composers who were not necessarily organists (e. g., Debussy and Ravel) were either influenced by their predecessors and contemporaries who were organists, or simply preferred the clarity and subtle nuance that can be achieved by not using, or minimising the use, of the damper pedal.

Improvements over the years in damper pedal technology have made it easy for pianists to abandon true legato playing almost completely.  Consequently, I am presenting the pianist with two noisome problems: the first is actually learn to play legato.  That means facing up to the task of literally learning to connect the notes unaided by a mechanical contraption; i. e., having to hold down the note for its full value, and to learn the art of substitution. It is, in simple fact, technically much more challenging to play this way; making that what might have been a modest technical matter become a rather formidable task.  I suppose that explains a lot.

The other nuisance I present, as part of this “pedal-less” approach, is indeed, for the pianist to respect the phrase!  Composers don’t put those slurs in their scores just clutter up the page, although I’m sure a lot of keyboard musicians think so.  The idea is that at the end of one those curvy lines you’re supposed to breath.  Just ask any wind player or singer.  The fact that the piano’s phrases may be longer or don’t directly coincide with the singer is part of the whole idea!  You have these two or more individual conceits, each with its own integrity, so to speak, coming together producing an integrated whole.  That doesn’t really happen if the piano is only in the background merely supplying “mood” for the song.  I chose these two songs partially at random because: a) I just happen to really like these songs, and b) partially because they are vastly different songs stylistically and chronologically, and yet, require very similar approaches to accompaniment.  Most of what I have discussed here can and should be applied to many, if not most other, art songs.   The problem arises in having the good judgment, and (God forbid!) the good taste, to decide where and when discriminating use of the damper can be exercised.  That’s a whooole nuther subject.

So, what’s to be gained from all of this non-pedal way of accompanying art song?  Well, first is clarity of line; instead of a vocal part with just some kind of pleasant or mood setting in the background, the listener gets to hear, when all of these various ideas come together, that the song is truly greater than the sum of its parts.

Second, instead of making the music sound “dry” it actually becomes more expressive since the pianist must now seriously consider the phrase and the interrelationships of the parts, provided that the pianist has, in fact, learnt the art of genuine legato playing.  Third, the result (and this is the really scary part) the composer’s intentions may remarkably be realised!

That is, of course, if the pianist is truly interested in fulfilling the composer’s intentions.

I Miss the Organ, but…

I miss the organ terribly. But, when I hear some one playing Franck (the 2nd Choral in b) on a screech machine the 1950 Holtkamp in Crouse Auditorium at Syarcuse University it makes me miss it even more.  It drives me crazy to hear some one obviously does not know how to play this kind of music because 1) she chose such a dismal instrument; and 2) she (like 9999.99% of organists) has absolutely zero imagination as to registration.  If you’re going to attempt Franck on a callous, faux-Baroque squeak box like 1950’s Holtkamp then you really need to have some imagination.  No wonder nobody likes the organ any more.

MBTA Woes

I and my wife recently moved to Boston (April 2013) from what is often referred to as our sister city Philadelphia, and we LOVE it here.  Boston is a glorious town.  I don’t need to go into details since anyone who has been here for two weeks knows that.  Notwithstanding, there is a serious, a VERY serious shortcoming, and I dare say, an obvious one — MBTA, specifically the T trains, more specifically the Green line — and most specifically the E line, and its accompanying #39 bus.

What is going on here?  So much of Boston works so well and is so well maintained (again for space considerations specifics need not be elucidated here), yet, the transit system here is… hmm, how should I say this… ah — deplorable!

As I mentioned I come from Philadelphia where things, generally, in spite of the city’s Public Relations Department output, are not very good.  One of those glaring inadequacies is the SEPTA (Southeastern Pennsylvania Transportation Authority) system which is a sprawling conglomeration of buses, trackless trolleys, an amazingly simplistic subway (a simple criss-cross north/south/east/west only), various subway-surface trolleys, light rail and regional rail systems which is divided three ways:  city transit (buses, subways, subway-surface, trackless trolleys), suburban (buses, light rail) and regional rail (commuter trains).  Since Philly is bigger than Boston, one can only imagine how monumentally difficult hodgepodge SEPTA is to manage.  Yet, somehow they do it.  Don’t get me wrong, Philly’s SEPTA system has Herculean problems, and its executive structure still needs an overhaul so that the board realistically reflects how the system is actually used and represented.  Notwithstanding, rather in spite of its disjointed nature and problematic executive board structure SEPTA happened to be managed well enough to win the “Outstanding Transit System 2012” award.

Why am I saying all of this?  Because the MBTA simply by its design and configuration should be so much easier and more efficaciously managed than SEPTA’s sprawling, much larger system.  But in simple fact, it isn’t.  Not even close, a fact of Boston, in light of how so much of this town I find so much more desirable, I find most distressing.  I love this town.  Ever since my wife and I moved here in April (yes, during Marathon Week), we have simply enjoyed it for way too many reasons to cite here — except for one — the MBTA and its disastrous Green Line E-Train and its sister the #39 bus.  Allow me to concentrate on those two lines, since they probably exemplify what is so wrong with the MBTA system.

The concept of schedule is a joke; and, as I far as I can see, the reasons are twofold:

1) the lack of common sense planning and experiencing reality.  How many MBTA board members, state or local politicians have used the system — again those two lines in particular — if at all?  None of these people have any real idea of the difficulties the E-train has once it is above ground.  The #39 Bus has similar difficulties primarily because of the parking and traffic nightmare known as Mission Hill.

2) At this point (much of it is caused by the above) the operators of the T and 39 bus don’t feel as if they can even come close to being on schedule.  Nevertheless, that should not be an issue with the other bus lines; however, there is obviously no, I repeat — NO — enforcement of the bus schedules.  But, then again,why should the drivers care?  Since they get no support from the MBTA or respect from the public who use the system, the natural reaction, understandably, is not to give a damn.  They are frustrated and, as a result the ridership becomes immensely frustrated.

OK, enough of the complaints. Solutions. Solutions to the MBTA are ridiculously simple, and (God forbid!) cost effective:

1) The E-Train, after Brigham’s Circle, loses its designated line, and on the street parking is suddenly allowed causing traffic to bottleneck constantly every day.  This makes positively no sense.  Therefore, the designated line should be extended, at least, until after the turn onto South Huntington Ave. (Riverway).

2) Of course, in order to accomplish this that would mean extending the ban on parking on Huntington Ave. past Brighams’s Circle as well.   Moreover, opening up that lane would then allow for the 39 bus to travel more fluidly and even follow the schedule (What?!).  This would restrict auto and truck traffic.  Now, for you car drivers who will piss and moan over such a  restriction, I say (and I’m sure I’m not the only one) so what!  Park your car and use either the transit system or ride a bike.  Get your confounded car off the street!  It simply does not make sense to allow on the street parking on Huntington Ave. at any point; it is a major thoroughfare all the way into (and including) Brookline.  I’m sure that these two proposals are new.  But then maybe that’s the point: that some one such as myself and my wife, who are still relatively new to the city can see such obviously simple solutions to such a niggling problem, then it is pretty evident that they need to be addressed.

So far I have not heard any of the mayoral candidates address this issue (or the issue of reestablishing the extension of the E line past Heath Street, whether it’s up to Hyde Square or all the way back up to Forest Hills/Arborway).  In fact, from what I’ve seen  the needs of JP despite it burgeoning population diversity and economic growth in recent years seems to have been largely ignored by the mayoral candidates.

Anyway, transit is not a trivial issue; the quality of public transit in Boston — like any major metropolis — affects the vitality and quality of life for all of its citizens.  It goes beyond maters concerning fossil fuel consumption.  An efficiently managed and operated transit system attracts investment and invites the people who come with that investment to park, or even sell, their cars, since there would be no need to have one.  Nevertheless, that is only contingent upon the MBTA and the new mayor waking up and doing something about the pathetic state of public transit in this region.  Fixing the E-line would go a long way to getting there.

What ever happened to the well dressed man or woman? Part IV

A couple generations ago dressing down used to have negative connotations. It meant dressing below standard, below what was even considered appropriate for casual or sportswear. It was so onerous that the last thing you wanted to experience from a parent or your boss was a “dressing down.” Nowadays, dressing down pretty much means avoiding at all costs anything resembling good taste, especially anything tailored, such as a suit (men’s or women’s), or a blazer and slacks, a dress, or a skirt with a co-ordinating blouse. Dressing down is a by-product of the 70’s/80’s commercialisation of the 60’s free-speech, anti-war, “it’s-not-what’s-on-the-outside-but-what’s-on-the-inside-that-counts” movements. This, of course, brings us to the idea of “casual Fridays;” which is little more than an excuse for not wanting to look like Gregory Peck in “The Man in the Grey Flannel Suit.” A look I don’t necessarily see as pejorative.

The movie “Good Night, and Good Luck,” made a strong impression on me. For those of you who haven’t seen it, it takes place at the CBS studios in New York during the early 50’s. What impressed me (beyond David Straithairn’s uncanny realistic portrayal of Edward R. Murrow) was the setting. More precisely, how people dressed in that setting in that time: the men in their dress shirts and ties, and women in A-line dresses or skirts and blouses with mostly collar and stand or peter pan necklines. Now granted, this was an office environment in the news division of a major network; and yes, there was a sameness, an overtly conformist look (emphasised by the black and white cinematography); nevertheless, the setting was not atypical of the standard office environment of the time. The point is, they looked professional – people serious about their work and dressed accordingly.

Ideally, I suppose, the world would be better if people weren’t judged by what they wear, or how they maintain their hair, or how they smell and other aspects of personal hygiene – hmmm. Anyway, such are not the ways of most highly developed cultures. And since our society thrives on the visceral, what we wear is one of the primary determining factors in the way we present ourselves; it tells others a lot about how we wish (or, more accurately, how others think we wish) to be perceived. That includes all manner of dress, whatever the circumstances. Whether we like it or not, what we wear makes a very powerful initial – visceral – impression.

Dressing down is just that; dressing down. It’s a symbol of lowered standards; standards society has come to accept as the norm. It reflects the cavalier attitude that recent generations have fostered toward the imprecise, the unclear, the inexact. We no longer focus our attention on one or two tasks and endeavour diligently to assure their veracity. No, today we multi-task, which is a euphemism for companies to overwork and under pay employees so as to achieve what can only be at best the bare minimum. As long as we get the job done. Whether it’s done well is really not the principal concern today. Businesses supposedly can’t afford the time and cost of some one concentrating single mindedly on only one or two projects and doing them well. We proclaim the need for and supposedly value excellence; but, we really don’t have time for it. We can’t afford it. Yet, for some reason we have lots of time and money to redo the job again and again until it’s right; that is, until it’s “good enough.” I use general terms because this issue of multi-tasking is endemic throughout our society. It does not matter whether the work involves manufacturing or supplying a service; multi-tasking, cutting corners, is pervasive. And it’s reflected in how we dress. Treating your appearance seriously is no different than treating your work seriously.

Oh, I can hear it now, “I don’t need to get all dressed up to do my job well.” Theoretically that’s very true. But, dollars to donuts, reality dictates the opposite. Unfortunately, as Kevin stated, the sin of it all is that when you don’t know an higher standard you don’t know you’re lacking it. If the standard of dress is slovenly, well, I guess that’s “the style” and we’re supposedly no worse off for the lack of knowing any better.

Unfortunately, there is no surprise to any of this. After all we are a society driven by what is commercially expedient; and the key to commercial expediency is the lowest common denominator – what has become referred to as “Pop Culture,” in which charlatans like Andy Warhol, Cy Twombly, Laurie Anderson, Meredith Monk, John Cage, Terry Riley, John Galliano and John Gaultier , and any street thug who spews violence laden profanities to a back beat are lauded as geniuses. Who needs to learn how to draw? Who needs theory and counterpoint? Who needs talent? Evidently nobody these days.

What ever happened to the well dressed man or woman? Part III

Good taste, bad taste. If there’s one thing of which a person does not like to be accused it’s of having bad or poor taste. Unfortunately, since the 70’s good taste is a concept whose paucity becomes more and more evident every day. Poor taste in art, music, fashion, writing have become the norm, coin of the realm. I mean, have you read or heard what passes for poetry nowadays? Case in point: Elizabeth Alexander’s Inaugural piece of prosaic blather. It’s a testament to the general malaise of standards (which set the criteria for good & bad taste) that someone can conceive such tripe and be considered worthy of the Pulitzer Prize. Robert Frost she ain’t. Maya Angelou she ain’t.

Why the 70’s? Because it was in the latter half of that decade that industry decided to capitalise on the hipness of being “radical;” when long hair, tie-dyed shirts, peace symbols and other nonconformist forms of apparel went from being political to profitable. So, we ended up with corporate execs and lawyers wearing polyester leisure suits with bell bottom pants and lapels out to the shoulder and either tie-dyed or flower print shirts to show that they were “with it.” If a tie was worn it was as wide as a bib. And let us not forget the granny dress and the ultra-short miniskirt in which 99.99999% of women then, as well (Oh Lord) as today, should never be seen.

Yes, it was in the 70’s that began the long precipitous decent of taste in style. But that was just the beginning; the stage was set for the next great decline: Punk followed by Grunge, from which society never recovered. All anyone has to do is walk around any city, or college/university metropolitan area, or any public high school and see the remnants of the waste laid by the pop culture of the 80’s.

Then when you thought things couldn’t get any worse, along comes rap and hip-hop with its foul language and glorification of the criminal life. As soon a the “music” became commercially viable so did the corresponding “fashion” of low rise wearing baggy jeans and oversized clothing. Oh, lets not forget the jock/frat mentality of the middle class with their backwards baseball caps and faux hip-hop clothes and scraggy beards.

My generation has no one to blame but itself. We raised a generation (along with the ensuing generation) of kids who were told that they were all just great, that everyone was special and each every one was entitled to whatever he or she wanted and that instilling some form of discipline would damage their self esteem. So, our society is blessed with two or more generations of people who can’t be told anything, even how to dress. Fresh out of school (either graduation or dropping out) they expect to be paid whatever they want, come to work whenever they want and work as much or as little as they want because that’s how they’ve been conditioned to think. Our colleges and universities have become little more than glorified trade schools whose only purpose is to make sure that what is taught are those things which are going to get junior or sis into a good MBA programme. That is all that matters. It has become the primary focus of both private and public education. The well rounded liberal arts and humanities education has long been discarded in favour of pure avarice. So how is one supposed to know how to dress appropriately when the whole of society is bent on the expedient?

Good taste, like any skill, is learnt. Good taste is a by-product of the understanding of those things which are reflective of a society taught that there is more to life than the temporal high of instant gratification.

When one has learned to appreciate –– to relish –– the complexity of T. S. Eliot, Dante, Guillame de Machaut, J. S.Bach, Jan van Eyck, Frederick E. Church, Gerhard Richter, etc. then one can learn to appreciate the subtleties of the deceptive simplicity of a tailored suit by Joseph Abboud or a simple belt cinched shift by Kenneth Cole.

There’s good taste and bad taste.Good taste simply reflects a discerning mind as manifested through a well exercised intellect and a highly developed sense of cultural history. Things which with our current education and child rearing practises are woefully in short supply in today’s society.

What ever happened to the well dressed man or woman? Pt. II

Don’t get me wrong. I still believe in what were ultimately the progressive social and political ideals of my generation at that time. And some of them have partially come to fruition –– today’s inauguration being an example. Moreover, I fully realise that the long hair, the grungy clothes, head bands, beads and other “accessories” were all part of that statement. Nevertheless, as with most large scale, unstructured good intentions, the “It’s not what you see on the outside that counts; it’s what’s inside” philosophy of so-called open mindedness was easily corrupted into what has basically become a lame excuse for bad taste.

Of course the prostitutes –– er, designers –– of the fashion industry found it so much more expedient to follow, and hopefully capitalise on this “free spirited” so-called style of the times, they merely contributed to the overall decline in standards and personal discipline with which our society has now become so insidiously plagued. So called icons of fashion such as Giorgio Armani have been enablers of this trend. All you have to do is walk into an A/X store and see the gratuitously overpriced rags that pass as fashionable sportswear. It’s become so prevalent and easy that just about any street thug who manages to make him or her self a successful hip-hop album, or reality show contest winner, or drug and alcohol induced former airheaded model, or any other talentless pop icon can become a “designer;” thus further perpetuating the fraud that looking like either a homeless person or a gang member is considered fashionable or “cool.” This takes us further into the subject of what defines good and bad taste…(to be continued)

Whatever Happened to the Well Dressed Man or Woman? Pt I

I’ve been in the men’s apparel industry now for a little over 8 years. I stumbled onto it pretty much by accident. Up to that point music and the music industry had always been the focus of my life. Even after the demise of my sheet music store “Heritage Music House” in Philadelphia, I ended up working full time at Tower Records Classical Annex on South Street. Meanwhile, I kept my fingers in the church music pie as Music Director at various Philly churches. After I quit Tower I decided to take on a part time gig at Lord & Taylor in Centre City Phila. since my primary work was at the now defunct St. Peter’s Episcopal Church of Germantown.

Anyway, I thought it would be interesting to work in something different and fashion had become a source of interest to me recently. Of course, I can never involve myself halfway in anything; so, I began researching vendor sources, as in,” Who makes this stuff for all these designers?” Most designers, of course, don’t produce much of their stuff themselves; they license out production to any number of vendors who own the factories. I became more and more intrigued with the idea of knowing how the clothes are made:  men’s suits, even the cheap ones, are amazingly complicated constructs. What is between the outer shell and the lining is a maze of layers and sub or partial layers I need not go into at this moment.

Moreover, I discovered I have a natural talent for putting together a man’s outfit, especially a tailored one. I suddenly discovered I had this flair for taking a suit or blazer & trousers and combining them with a shirt or two and three to four ties and making them all interchangeable so that a man can, with just a few items have a fully functional tailored wardrobe. I don’t generally like to brag (which, I guess is one of the reasons I can’t get a decent job), but I’m really good at this.

At first it was very interesting, exciting even. But, coming down to earth it is, after all, retail. And that’s been my biggest problem. I’m a retailer. That’s fine if you have your own business, such as when I had Heritage Music; but, working for others makes it very dreary and wearisome. Coupled with the duties of being a church musician and, well, weekends are non-existent.

Moreover, retailing has a stigma to it that almost precludes you from finding work in another field. I don’t understand why, but it does.

But, I digress. Since my active involvement in the fashion industry I’ve become more aware than ever of the dismal state of dress in our society. I’m a firm believer that fashion, not unlike the arts (or should I say the other arts), reflects directly on the state of a civilisation, either enlightened or barbaric. Unfortunately, the current trend has been toward the latter. The whole idea of looking like you just dressed yourself out of some dumpster being considered cool is a hideous product phenomenon originating uniquely from the late 20th Century, namely the late 60’s

Unfortunately, it’s one remnant from that era that actually stuck. All the struggle for political, social and economic justice; all the striving to achieve an higher, more enlightened consciousness have at best seen token achievement (racial & sexual justice) or at worst regression (economic justice). No, dressing like a slob just like all its attendant undisciplined and just basically rude behaviour, not to mention bad taste, seems to be the enduring legacy of the radicalism of the late 60’s…(to be continued)